Alberta consumers, home inspectors and the real estate industry indicated widespread support for regulation during public consultation by the government.

The regulation also provides additional protection for homebuyers:

• requiring home inspectiom businesses carry errors and omission insurance in case an inspector makes a mistake or is negligent;
• requiring home inspection businesses post a security to cover consumer losses if the regulation is not followed;
• establishing what parts of a home and property must be included in a home inspection; and
• prohibiting contract clauses that limit the liability of the business and inspectors.

Service Alberta can investigate complaints that a home inspector has violated the regulation. Enforcement actions include suspension or cancellation of the license, and prosecution under the Fair Trading Act, with a maximum fine of $100,000 and up to two years in jail.

It is September 1, 2011 and all home inspectors must be licensed in order to operate a home inspection business.

JBR Inspections Ltd is licensed and registered with the Government of Alberta to operate a Home Inspection Business! (License # 332452).

I am proud to be a part of this industry and glad to see these regulations come into effect.  These regulations highlight the importance of a home inspection and sets a standard of education that all inspectors must achieve prior to operating as a home inspector.

A home  “check up”  is a limited inspection ideal for a home owner wanting to plan for future expenses and address issues that could create large repairs in the future. The check up will report on the condition of all the major components of your home, including the roof, drainage, furnace, hot water heater, electrical components, plumbing and attic.  What I don’t inspect during a check up are all the little things like windows, doors, cabinets etc.  You live in the home, you don’t need me to tell you the door knob is loose.

Benefits of a check-up:

• Plan for future expenses
• Save energy
• Eliminate surprise repairs
• Minimize damages from water
• Prevent damages from severe weather
• Maintain a safe home
• Maintain the value of your home

A check up is also a great value to you if you are selling a home.  If there are major concerns identified in the check up the seller has the opportunity to make repairs, or disclose this information as part of the sale.  This will eliminating renegotiating after the buyer completes their inspection.

In many ways a check up on your home is like going to the doctor, the difference is I do house calls.

The “Check up” just $179.00

**The “Check up” is not an alternative for a the pre-purchase inspection.  When you are purchasing a home a full (essential) home inspection is the recommended service.

Here are some thought starters:

• Check your eavestroughs and Downspouts for loose joints and secure as attachment to your home, clear any obstructions and ensure water is flowing away from your foundation.
• Check your sump pump.  It will work very hard during the spring thaw.  Is it operating properly?  Clear any obstructions from the discharge pipe and make sure it allows water to drain away from the foundation?
• Examine your foundation wall for signs of cracks, leaks or moisture and repair as necessary.
• Assess all painted wood surfaces (window and door frames, wood siding, accent trim, decks and fences) make a plan paint surfaces as required in the summer when the temperature is warmer during the over night period.
• Inspect all railings and stairs for safety.
• Using binoculars inspect the roof for missing or curled shingles, damaged air vents and anything that seems unusual, consult a roofer if you observe damage.
• Check all the places air enters or exhausts from the home.  Are the grates clean, do the exhaust vents have functioning flappers.  Check the dryer vent for lint.  Vacuum all your bathroom exhaust fan grates and since you have the vacuum out do the same for your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors
• Test your smoke detectors with smoke (light a candle and blow it out close to your smoke detector)
• In mid April it is time to clean your humidifiers and put them away for the season.  If you use a de-humidifier in the summer, clean it, set it up and test it.
• Clean or replace your furnace filter.
• If your house is equipped with air conditioning, uncover the compressor unit, inspect the insulation on the lines and clean debris from the condenser. Check the breaker and turn it on, consider having your air conditioner serviced (recommended every 2-3 years).  Do not test the unit until the temperature exceeds 15 degrees Celsius.
• Have fireplace and wood stove chimney’s cleaned.
• Turn off pilot lights on anything you may not use for the summer, like a garage furnace.
• Check all your window screens and hardware.  Replace storm window with screens if you have an older home, clean all the window tracks for smooth operation this summer.
• Open your outside hose bib once all danger of frost is gone.
• Maintain your landscape.  Check for any grading issues and correct as needed.  Cut back tree branches that are close to or overhanging the house.

Have a great spring!

• Does your home have a Carbon Monoxide detector? Where is it located?  Carbon Monoxide is a deadly gas that is odorless.  It is heavier than air and can only be detected with a Carbon Monoxide detector.  The ideal place for a Carbon Monoxide detector is on the lower level near the furnace and hotwater heater, near a garage door or a fireplace. (Gas or Wood burning).  You may also consider putting one in the hallway where your family sleeps.  Since Carbon Monoxide is heavier than air, the detector should be close to the ground, usually in a wall plug.  It is OK to have more than one in your home.
• Do you have working smoke detectors on every level of the house, have they been tested with smoke lately.  Check the grills for dust build up and vacuum them if required.  Smoke detectors are good for 10 years and then replacement is recommended.  Batteries should be replaced every October.  Have you ever thought of putting best before dates on a smoke detectors just the same way the dairy does on a carton of milk?  This is an easy way to keep track of your smoke detectors age.
• Do you have accessible working fire extinguishers in your kitchen, garage and mechanical room.
• Check your egress escape routes.  Basement windows should open easily from inside and if there are security bars they should have quick release latch (No Locks).  Are the windows free of snow and debris and have a clear path to take you away from the house.  Don’t forget the upstairs bedroom windows.  They are also a point of egress and the same rules apply.  Is there a safe way to climb down from an upstairs window if needed?
• Are your railings tight and secure?  Check them all.  Basement stair railings are often removed for moving in furniture or during a remodel and not replaced.  Wooden deck railings loosen over time.  Do a general inspection of all the other guards and railings of the home.  Include any baby gates if you are using them, they loosen up over time as well.
• Does your home leak?  Water inside a home will enable mold to grow putting unhealthy mold spores and toxins in the air.  Check under all your sinks for signs on water and run the taps while feeling around under the sink for moisture.  If you find anything fix it immediately.  Check your ceilings for water stains which would indicate a roof leak or plumbing leak. Check all levels, a toilet leak on the top floor may first be detected in the ceiling below it.
• Is the area around you furnace and hot water heater clean and clutter free?  A small mechanical room should never be used for storage.  Make sure you have easy access to access panels on the furnace and hot water heater as well as the emergency shut off for both these units.  If your not sure where to find these shut offs nows the time to look around and find them and consider labelling them for easy detection in the future.  This is also a good time to do the same for the main water shut off valve.
• Check for basic electrical issues.  Do all your plugs and switches have proper cover plates?  Do any of your electrical appliances have frayed cords?  These items should be repaired right away.  Make sure your main electrical panel is accessible.  You should not store anything directly in front of the electrical panel.
• Are you storing any paints, solvents or cleaners in the house?  Are they out of reach children?  Are paints and solvents stored in a well ventilated area away from living spaces, or any source of heat?

Feel free to contact me for your home inspection needs.  I offer home inspections, thermal imaging, mold inspections and energy audits.  Let me know if I can help you.

• Your furnace is running a lot these days so the filter gets dirty quickly.  Clean or replace it monthly, this helps the furnace circulate warm air throughout your home and saves you valuable energy dollars.
• Drain a bucket or two of water from the clean out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank, you may have to consult your owners manual.  This will control sediment and maintain efficiency, saving you more energy dollars.
• Clean your humidifier, two or three times during the winter and monitor your moisture levels.  I have good information about humidity on my website.  http://www.jbrinspections.com/archives/49
• Vacuum your bathroom fan grills.
• Vacuum radiator grills on the back of refrigerators and freezers and the drip trays.
• Vacuum your smoke detectors, dust and spider webs can prevent them from functioning.  Test them with smoke.
• Check your fire extinguishers and recharge them if necessary
• Check fire escape routes and egress points, are your basement windows free of snow buildup?
• Poor some water down your floor drain to keep the trap full and run the water on any seldom used sinks or tubs.
• Examine doors and windows for ice build up or cold air leaks.  Make a note to repair any concerns in the spring.
• Check your plugs and outlets for wear.  Inspect your power cords.  If they are wearing out replace them immediately.

Taking care of these items on a regular basis keeps you safe, increases the life of your home’s components and ultimately saves you money!  Do you want to save more money in the future while making your home more comfortable to live in?  Call us to complete a thorough energy audit in your home and we can help you make a plan to improve your homes energy efficiency. 

• Turn off your main water supply.
• Turn the hot water heater to vacation or its lowest temperature setting while you are away.
• Arrange with a friend or neighbor to check the house every two days and take your mail in.
• Turn down the thermostat to save energy while you are away.
• Inform your alarm company the dates your are going to be away and update your key holder list.
• Arrange for snow removal.
• Call your bank and credit card companies to put a travel note on file.  Your card could be declined if it is used in a distant country and the bank suspects fraud or a stolen card.
• Plan for travel insurance if your leaving the country.
• Setup timers on energy efficient lamps to give your house a lived in look (timers can be purchased for as little as $1.98 at Princess Auto)
• Finally, have a great worry free vacation!

The level of humidity in your home will affect your health as well as the health of your home.  If you have asthma, allergies or have had respiratory infections, humidity that has been very high or very low is a contributing factor.  These factors will also have an impact on the condition of your home.

Humans are most comfortable and healthiest in an environment where the humidity is maintained at a level around 40% (Every home should have a hygrometer). 

When levels drop below 20% humidity, it means the air is very dry.  There is an increased level of dust and allergens in the air, our skin becomes dry and you begin to get a lot of static in the air.  Dragging your feet on the carpet is sure to give someone a shock.  This is also hard on your home.  Wood starts to dry out, hardwood floors creek and wood in expensive cabinets and furniture starts to shrink.

When levels climb above 60% humidity, it means the air is very damp.  Humidity above 60% is ideal for the growth of mold which will start to grow within 48 hours.  Mold will irritate health concerns such as asthma, allergies and respiratory infections.  Mold will also deteriorate wood and over time weaken the structure of a home.

In today’s modern home a lot has been done to improve insulation and energy efficiency.  High efficiency furnaces, hot water heaters and fireplaces combined with new windows and doors built to seal up a house, means very little fresh air gets in.  During the winter (and summer if you have central air conditioning), you trap the air inside the home.  In our daily activities, bathing, cooking and even breathing you introduce humidity into your home.  Consider how much humidity you introduce into your home during that big family Christmas dinner.

If you notice your homes humidity above 50% (remember every home should have a hygrometer) it is time to take action!  Newer homes have a built in whole house ventilation system.  In this case turning it on will remove some of that humidity.  If you don’t have that luxury, running your kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans will help remove the stale damp air.  Both of these solutions work very well in the cooler winter months.   During a damp summer the outside air can be even more humid than the inside air.  Ventilation alone may not help, consider getting a dehumidifier for the house.  A dehumidifier removes moisture from the air eliminating the possibility of mold growing in your home.

When you notice the humidity is below 30% it is time to take action.  Most homes are built with a central humidifier on the furnace.  If you have one make sure it is clean and functioning properly.  This however, is not my favorite way to add humidity to a home (see my blog on humidifiers for more information).  Run portable humidifiers, in most cases one consol unit is enough but smaller units can be used to humidify isolated areas.  You can also run those bathroom fans for a shorter period of time after a bath or shower.  In this caes putting moisture back into the air is good for your health and your home.

I was recently called out to do a mold investigation at a home.  The homeowner was sick and had to move out of the home.  The homeowner knew the home had humidity levels of above 80% for most of the summer but unfortunately did not know the effects the humidity was having on their health and their home, so they did not take action.  They would clean the mold off the walls and  hard surfaces when it became visible and when the humidity dropped, the mold became dormant and stopped appearing on the walls.  The mold is in the carpets, the curtains and furniture waiting for any amount of moisture to start growing again.  Shortly after the investigation a family member accidently overflowed the tub in the bathroom soaking part of the carpet.  Even after attempting to dry the carpet, the mold was visibly growing on the walls in the bathroom within hours of the spill. 

A little education could have prevented a lot of heart ache for this homeowner, which is why I am sharing this information with you today.  If you think your home may be making you or a loved one sick, give me a call.  I may not find any problems and you will have peace of mind.  If I do find something that needs attention, your family’s health will benefit from taking action on the problems I may find.

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
• It increases indoor comfort levels.
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70°F (25° C to 21°C), for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses required by traditional storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient -– and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An energy auditor can be hired to assess envelope leakage and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings, give us a call to arrange in inspection.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical outlets;
• mail slots;
• around pipes and wires;
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
• attic hatches;
• fireplace dampers;
• weatherstripping around doors;
• baseboards;
• window frames; and
• switch plates.

5. Install efficient shower heads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

• low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have “1.6 GPF” marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in North America. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.  
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption.
• Use efficient “Energy Star”-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the EPA’s Energy Star Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
• Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
• Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home’s interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

• skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
• lightshelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and 
• light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home’s total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

• Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
• Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren’t already in place.
• Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
• If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don’t work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
• Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
• Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame. 
• Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.
• Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
• When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster. 

10. Change the way you wash your clothes.

• Do not use the “half load” setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the “half load” setting saves less than half of the water and energy.
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not that dirty. Water that is 140 degrees uses far more energy than 103 degrees for a “warm” setting, but 140 degrees isn’t that much better for washing purposes.
• Clean the lint trap before you use the dryer, every time. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer. 

One other point I would like to make, most modern homes have downspouts that easily lift up out of the way and lock in place.  This feature should be used only to move the downspouts out of the way to do lawn or yard maintenance.  Once you have completed the tasks at hand, replace the downspouts in the down position ready to do their job during the next rain storm.  I have yet to meet someone who runs outside at the first sign of rain to “put down” the downspouts.